We have seen travel through a different lens over the last year but what must surely be a standout feature of this time is the connection we made with nature – weather that’s on our doorstep or further afield in the UK. With international travel actually made illegal (who could ever have foreseen that?), we’ve had to adjust our boundaries, and many of us have been content to explore our own turf, finding plenty of adventure.
Take the far north of Scotland for example. A veritable alternative to America’s Route 66, the North Coast 500 is one of the UK’s most scenic road trips, covering 500 miles of rugged Highland wilderness: misty lochs, ruinous castles, never-ending valleys, white-sand beaches and surprisingly stylish abodes to while away your time, drinking in the larger-than-life panoramas, plus local tipples of the low and high alco variety. It’s exactly the freedom and wide-open space we’ve all been craving.
Starting at Inverness, your route takes you through the feathered coastline of the Highland’s Wester Ross west coast, where the Kintail Mountains loom, sea lochs come in inky blues and people are few and far between. Its desolate isolation is its draw – wander between steep glens and breathe great lungfuls of fresh, mossy air.
Booking into 57 Nord should from part of your experience and help you connect with the raw landscapes that at times can be almost overwhelming. This old crofter’s hut has been transformed into a cosy cabin for two, with Scandi-cool interiors created by its owner Mumtaz Lailani who grew up in Norway and Finland.
Here, it’s all about comfort and style – light the log burner and watch the weather scud across the sky through floor-to-ceiling windows. Your kitchenette cupboard will be thoughtfully curated for your needs – Lailani can add mineral wines, low-alco Scottish ales or a tasting selection of local drams from the Isle of Skye – although as an alternative you might like to request Feragaia – a distilled, alcohol-free spirit, created in Fife. At breakfast, the freshly ground coffee from a roastery in Glasgow will kick start the senses for a day out in the wilds.
Although 57 Nord can provide delicious hampers of hot smoked salmon, local cheeses and artisan bread, the nearby unique foodie restaurant Eòlachi https://www.eolachfood.co.uk is worth booking in to. Its eight-course menu will wow you, featuring ingredients from the surrounding elemental landscapes such as foraged sea greens, wild coastal plants, freshly smoked fish and Highland beef.
From here, the section of road known as Bealach na Ba is a hairpin thrill which will push you out of your comfort zone as well as provide you with jaw-dropping views. As the winding road cuts through lofty peaks, you’ll be rewarded with panoramas of mist-swirled mounts and crags that dance with the shadows of clouds; the summit opens out onto views of the Inner Sound.
The far north beckons as you enter the upper reaches of Scotland into Sutherland, which makes up the majority of the North Coast 500. Known as Europe’s last wilderness, the landscape is characterised by the meeting point of mountain and sea, where stately castles jostle with archaeological ruins and whisps of white sand beaches and quaint fishing villages sit alongside geological wonders millions of years old.
At the far northerly tip, take in views that stretch to Norway with the possibility of glimpsing the aurora borealis at night. Stay at Lundies House hotel, located on the coastal village of Tongue, where stylish interiors, open fireplaces, free-standing tubs and underfloor heating are the perfect respite from a day clambering local bens, exploring the ruins of Castle Bharrich and wild swimming in refreshing waters.
Settle into a deep velvet sofa and treat yourself to a drink; tea and a sweet treat for the afternoon, perhaps a BrewDog craft beer Nanny State (0.5%), (brewed in Scotland) or a G&T around the open- fire before dinner of oysters and local game. You might even dine outside under vast glittering skies – sit around the communal firepit with a whisky in hand and enjoy a BBQ with charred meats and whole grilled fish.
Talking of whisky, something to look out for on your exploration of Scotland is Dochus – created by Spirits of Virtue using spring water from the Cairngorms and seaweed from the Hebrides, creating notes of peat and caramel. This is truly the taste of Scotland, just without the alcohol – excellent choice if you’re considering talking those hairpin bends!
As you wind your way back to Inverness, perhaps stopping at the Highlands’ pinnacle John O’ Groats to view the Orkney Islands, dolphin spotting in the North Sea off Easter Ross and exploring Black Isle (not an island but a charming peninsula), reflect on the journey – not just of mileage but Scotland’s soul-stirring scenes, plenty of fresh air…and having tasted a couple of beautiful local tipples (boozy or not) it will be impossible not to be more refreshed than when you arrived.
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